Wild Men on the North Fork

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Vegetable Variety Pages: | Beans - Carrot | Cauliflower - Corn |Cucumber - Peas
Peppers - Squash | Tomato - Watermelon
2016 Notes | 2015 | 2014 | 2013 | 2012 | 2011 | 2010 | 2009 | 2008 | 2007 | 2006 | 2005 | 2004 | 2003 | 2002
This page: 2016 Planting Guide, When to Start Seed, When to Set Out
Wyogrow...where the tough get growing, by Fred Jacquot
I have been an active gardener in the Casper area now for over 30 years. Back when I first started no one could tell a beginner what kind of carrots or tomatoes grew best here. Because I have been taking notes all these years, you can find out what plants do best in Wyoming on the 'vegetable varieties' pages, whose links are above.
Along with my partners Mark McAtee and Paul Combe I have done a lot of experimenting and research. You can find the results of this activity on these many pages. Please click on the links and start viewing our work. I think you will find that there is a huge amount of information available here for you. Enjoy!

Below are a few links to some nice garden sites.

Fermented Tomato Conserve (Conserva Cruda Di Pomodoro)
Why Do You Soak Cucumbers Before Pickling?
Texas A&M Vegetables
Here is a link to Garden Guides!
Rocky Mountain Garden Forum
Garden Humor
About Composting

Between Season Notes 2016-2017

January 31, 2017

3 Factors for Gardening Success

#1...Selection

I have developed my one third rule for gardening in Wyoming. Basically, you will get 1/3 less from a garden in Wyoming than you will get from one in Iowa, perhaps even less. The fruit that you get will be 1/3 smaller, or the volume of production will be 1/3 less.

When I apply the 1/3 rule to climate I get results that are sobering. I calculate that here in Casper our growing season is 114 days. But those 114 days are not comperable to the same number of growing days in Iowa. Many of our nights dip well below 50 degrees farenheit. To get an equivalent I multiply 114 by 2 and get 228. Then I divide by three and I get 76. Thus, in Casper we have a growing season of 76 Iowa-days. That has serious implications when you are selecting varieties to plant in you garden. You will want to plant very short-season varieties.

Below are links to my vegetable variety pages. There are many tables. In the first column of these tables are four-letter links followed by numbers. The four letters are shorthand links to the sites of seed suppliers and the numbers are the days-to-maturity that each seed provider estimates for that variety. Thus, 'Burp65' is a link to the Burpee seed site and 65 would be the days-to-maturity that Burpee estimates for the particular variety in question. Use these links. I have done a lot of leg work for you.

Beans - Carrot

Cauliflower - Corn

Cucumber - Peas

Peppers - Squash

Tomato - Watermelon


3 Factors for Gardening Success

#2...Soils

Clay soils, in particular, will compact through the process of watering. So even if you never trod on tilled soil you can be compacting it every time you water. Always take the opportunity to mix some humus in as you till, and to mix it into the soil surrounding trees and bushes. Humus is available in the forms of peat moss, manure, and compost. Peat can be purchased by the bag, or by the bale. It comes to us mostly from Canada It is dug there from old lake beds, and contains the plant remains of hundreds, even thousands of years of lake-plant growth. Peat moss provides great humus that is slightly acidic. That acidity will neutralize some of the alkali in our soils.

Manures have different degrees of 'hotness', or concentrations of nitrogen. Sheep manure is the hottest available to Casper residents. To obtain some you may have to drive out into the countryside to ranches that feed herds of sheep over the winter. Never use fresh sheep manure. Use only aged sheep manure, and use it sparingly. Even aged sheep manure can burn plants if it is too concentrated.

Horse manure is 'hotter' than cow manure, and has fewer active seeds. Use manure that has aged in a pile for a least a year, as that composting tends to kill a lot of seeds in the manure.

Tiny grains of clay in freshly tilled soil are widely separated. During compaction there is less and less space between them. Because they are very thin they orient horizontally during compaction, forming a barrier that is virtually impossible for roots to penetrate.
Sandy soil also presents problems. Think humus and manure...or organics. Sandy soil is severly lacking in organics. Till some in every year until you get a more acceptable soil mix.
Please click on this link to go to the Soils page.

3 Factors for Gardening Success

#3...Climate Control

Birds do it, bees do it, farmers do it in a big way.

WINDBREAKS

CONTOUR PLOWING

IRRIGATION
Farmers all over the world modify the climate in which they grow crops. Among the methods they use are windbreaks, countour plowing and irrigation. They know, as we should know, that climate modification is necessary.
The Wind Kills
We once had an 80 mph wind gust the day after we set out our tomatoes. That stripped all the leaves off of the plants. That inspired us to begin using tubes to keep the wind off. All but one of the plants put on new leaves and survived. We found that there are multiple advantages to using thick-walled plastic tubing. It keeps the wind off the tender young plant that is going through root shock. If pushed down into the ground, it prevents cut worms from attacking.
Tubes provide thermal mass, and radiate heat back to the plant during the evening. They allow just enough wind to strike the plant to allow it to wiggle. This makes the stem stronger. When the plant does grow up out of the tube it is ready to handle the wind.
We use tubes for Tomato, Pepper, Cucumber, and Bean. The tender sprouts of the last two attract a lot of attention from the beetles. Tubes provide a barrier to the bugs. In the case of Cucumber, we tie a netting over the tube. When the plant grows large enough to touch the netting, it is also strong enough to withstand beetle attack, and we remove the netting.
Fences and wind barriers of all kinds are used in Wyoming gardens, and you should seriously consider using some in your garden.
Watering
We have found that tubes also help the watering process. When it is super hot outside, we like to water every other day. But tomatoes love water (they also love good drainage...go figure). When I water the Tomatoes and Peppers I simply fill the tubes full of water. The water seeps slowly into the soil for a deep watering, which is what I want. But beware. Do not do this early in the season. I killed some tomato plants one season by watering deeply this way too early. I would not water this way unless the plant is at least twice as high as when I set it out, and the temperatures are very warm.

The time to plan how you are going to water your garden is before you plant. Where exactly will the hose end up when you drag it through your beds? Will you need to drive stakes for hose control?

Please click on the links below to take you to other climate-related pages.

Climate/Conditions

Raised Beds

February 10, 2017

Jacky Miller sends greetings to Wyoming Gardeners. She has recently added an excellent new posting to JenReviews.com on Cauliflower, listing the many many benefits of that brassica and even giving some new recipes. If you are interested, please do click on this link: https://www.jenreviews.com/cauliflower/

George Gerona also sends greetings to Wyoming Gardeners. He has recently added an excellent new posting to LoyalGardener.Com on Basil. As George shows, there is a lot know about Basil. If you are interested, please do click on this link: http://www.loyalgardener.com/how- to-grow-basil-guide/

Bill Simpson unveils a new way to grow Tomatoes

TOMATOES 2016

Fred, here's an update on how I'm doing tomatoes now. I've gone away from cinder blocks since I realized, 'Yes, they do heat up from the sun', but they also block the sun from heating up the ground, and that's where all the roots are. Plus they limit good air circulation which helps limit diseases.

I still make my cages out of concrete reinforcement wire and make my own plastic (6 mil) sleeves. I just use a soldering gun to seal the plastic seams. I do a 2 in. overlap and poke a bunch of holes with a hot solder gun. That works great. Then I make a square basin that will hold at least 2 inches of water. I place 4 of the tomato cages in the basin. Then I find a good wooden pallet and set it on top of the 4 cages. I look for a light pallet that has good size gaps between the slats. The pallets give some shade and hail protection plus some strong support against the WIND. Then I drive down 2 metal T-posts to stabilize everything and use a single pallet slat, cut to size, too press down between the 2 T Posts. This should keep the pallet from getting sucked up from that F1 tornado or just a bad wind day in Casper. Hopefully the pictures will help.

I've found out that when I get a hail storm I'll only loose vegetation on the side of the square that the storm came from so I'll have some surviving tomatoes. Plus now I don't have to worry about cages getting blown over. I make a 4 ft walkway between the basins. I'm really happy with this set-up and it has eliminated most of my tomato problems. The tomato plants in the pictures are Goliath.

May 1, 2017

There is always a rush at this time of year to get beds ready. And many will plant those beds. Early planting in our climate is iffy. Certainly some crops like onions, lettuce, and raddish can be in the ground now. But many others can not. In this vein, I have developed the Daffodil Watch. I do it every year. The idea is that we usually get four snows on our Daffodils. So far this season we have gotten two. Even with the trees budding out now beware! The last average day of frost for Casper, Wyoming is MAY 25.

Daffodil Watch

From photo taken 04-06-17 at our house.

First Snow April 1, 2017

Second Snow April 4, 2017
Third Snow. From photo taken 04-25-17 at our house.
Fourth Snow. From photo taken 04-28-17 at our house.

May 20, 2017

We had very cold temperatures with rain and snow mixed from May 16 through May 19. There was a lot of covering to do for early garden planters and for large retailers who sell flower and vegetable plants. THE LAST AVERAGE DAY OF FROST FOR CASPER, WYOMING IS MAY 25. You can do all the hoping and wishing you want, but you will not change that fact. I have not planted my warm season crops yet. I do have in Peas, Broccoli, Cabbage, and Lettuce. To help you in your gardening efforts I offer you the following chart. It gives the ranges for maximum germination of different vegetable seeds in degrees Farenheit. This information comes from Johnny's Selected Seeds Catalog, one catalog I find I must have each year. From this chart you should be able to determing which are 'cool' weather and which are 'warm' weather plants.

Germination Temperatures

Vegetable

Maximum Germination

Cool to Warm

Maximum Germination

Beans

77
86
95

Potato

Usually planted on the Second or Third Week of April around Casper

Beets

77
86
95

Lettuce

68

Broccoli*

68
77
86

Spinach

71

Brussels Sprouts*

77
86
95

Kohlrabi

74

Cabbage*

77
86
95

Broccoli

77

Carrot

68
77
86

Carrot

77

Cauliflower*

77
86
95

Peas

81

Corn

77
86
95

Onion

82

Cucumber

77
86
95

Radish

84

Egg Plant

81
90
99

Beans

86

Kohlrabi

65
74
83

Beets

86

Lettuce

59
68
77

Brussels Sprouts

86

Melon

81
90
99

Cauliflower

86

Onion*

73
82
91

Corn

86

Peas

72
81
90

Cucumber

86

Pepper*

77
86
95

Pepper

86

Potato

Seed Potatoes are very small potatoes, or parts of potatoes that have not been treated in any way. They are usually planted on the Second or Third Week of April around Casper

Pumpkin

Please see Squash Below

Pumpkin

Please see Squash Below

Squash, Summer and Winter

86

Radish

75
84
93

Swiss Chard

86

Spinach

62
71
80

Tomato

86

Squash, Summer and Winter

77
86
95

Cabbage

88

Swiss Chard

77
86
95

Egg Plant

90

Tomato*

77
86
95

Melon

90

Watermelon

82
91
100

Watermelon

91
*Note: These vegetables are usually not directly seeded (or sown), but are usually raised in green houses and set out as plants in the Spring. In the case of Onions, sets (bulbs) or very small plants are usually set out. If you buy a bundle of onion plants (60 to 75 plants) DO NOT SOAK THE PLANTS before setting out.

Main Season Notes 2017

June 4, 2017

With the exception of a few pepper plants, I now have everything planted in my raised beds down at the plots. The last to go in were the Cucumbers and Winter Squash. I like to have really warm soil when I plant those, and now we have that.

Jacky Miller has sent me a link to a great article on Watermelon. I give a brief quote below:

Jacky also sends along this related link:

15 Science-Backed Benefits of Watermelon (+5 Delicious Watermelon Recipes) on JenReviews.Com.

June 22, 2017

There are always some failures, and some of them are interesting. I planted two kinds of Cucumbers this season, both from Burpee this year: Sugar Crunch and White Wonder. Germination was not 100 percent. The Sugar Crunch failed at the rate of 9 out of 24 seeds, or 37.5 percent. The White Wonder failed at the rate of 4 out of 24 seeds, or 16.66 percent. I think this is fairly typical for cucumbers and for melons as well. I think you can improve the odds for germination by planting according to ground temperature, trying to match up your soil temps with the ideal temps for different varieties. Pleas see the chart from May 20 below.

June 26, 2017

June Tomato Notes: I did a rough survey of my 22 tomato plants today. Here are the results.

Tomatoes in June

Variety

Plant Health

Production

Applause #1 Sick, but recovering 13 fruit
Applause #2 Low, very healthy flowers only
Bush Steak #1 Healthy 3 fruit
Bush Steak #2 Healthy 3 fruit
Applause #3 Big, healthy 9 fruit
Applause #4 Big, healthy 4 fruit
Bush Steak #1 Very healthy 3 fruit
Bush Steak #2 Very healthy 3 fruit
Applause #5 Very healthy 10 fruit
Applause #6 Very healthy 4 fruit
Rebbecca Allen #1 Recovering flowers only
Rebbecca Allen #2 Dense Growth 5 fruit
Black Krim #1 Healthy, tall flowers only
Black Krim #2 Healthy, tall 4 fruit
Tomande #1 Healthy, tall 6 fruit
Tomande #2 Healthy, tall 12 fruit
Brandy Boy #1 Tall flowers only
Brandy Boy #2 Tall flowers only
Bills Beefsteak #1 Short, healthy 3 fruit
Bills Beefsteak #2 Short, healthy 3 fruit
Bush Steak #3 Short, healthy flowers only
Bush Steak #4 Short, healthy flowers only

Based upon the number of fruit per plant, here are the ratios: Tomande (9), Applause (6.66), Better Bush (3), Bills Beefsteak (3), Rebecca Allen (2.5), Black Krim (2), Bush Steak (1.5), Brandy Boy (0).

July 16, 2017

Photos of the Season


Day Lillies at our house

Barry Franck's Pumpkins

Rudbeckia in one of our perennial beds

What is happening at the plots: Beans are flowering like crazy. We have been picking peas and radish and lots of lettuce. A small 3'x3' bed will keep a family in lettuce. We have had a picking of chard already. The squash are vining a need immediate help from me to spiral upward in their holding devise. Carrots are big enough to 'lay over' when I water them now. We have some marigolds blooming and zinnias look particularly strong. Tomatoes are producing well with Applause and Tomande being the leaders. We are about to harvest some big ripe Bush Steak and it will be interesting to taste these newbies. We have had some Black Krims but they seem bushy yet slow this year. Note to myself. Grow onions at Barry's next year from bulbs (sets).

What is happening at Barry Franck's: Musk Melon and Watermelon (Crimson Sweet) are small but growing rapidly. They are all starting to throw vines, right on schedule. I planted the musks in a trench as an experiment. But I will plant them in pits like the rest of my stuff next year. Pumpkin (Rouge Vif D'Entampes) and Squash (Spaghetti) are doing well in pits where I can concentrate manure around plants. We still see some seeds erupting from the original plantings a month ago and both Pumpkin and Squash are throwing vines. Barry's pumpkins (Howden) are doing very well, as well as are the Cucumbers. His soils need to be ammended, but he has high hopes for his ability to produce cash crops.

Judy's front row of Sunflowers are a bit stunted we think because we did not apply enough water after we first planted. Brassicas love it out at Barry's because of the basic clay soil. Chinese lettuce would prefer to be grown in town, as would the Pepper Grass. We put in 65-day sweet corn to fill in the black corn Judy already had going and now it is almost caught up with the other corn. So Barry's soil will grow corn. Judy put the black corn in trench rows with manure, then hilled soil up around the rows. I planted the sweet corn in shallow trenches, with manure, that trap water. We will have to judge at the end of the season which method we prefer.

We have experienced some good warm temperatures recently but they are nothing special when I look back over time. The early period, which I count as ending June 30, was on the cool side. So our warmth of late just makes up for that a little.

August 07, 2017

Photos of the Season


Musk Melon in Judy Jacquot's plot at Barry Franck's farm.

Watermelon in Judy Jacquot's plot at Barry Franck's farm.

Cinderella Pumpkin in Judy Jacquot's plot at Barry Franck's farm.

Spaghetti Squash in Judy Jacquot's plot at Barry Franck's farm.

September 12, 2017

END OF SEASON NOTES

PUMPKIN - Rouge Vif (Cinderella) - Performed well in the plots and at Barry Franck's.

SQUASH - Red October - Very pleased with this one in the plots

SQUASH - Heart of Gold - Very pleased with this one in the plots

SQUASH - Spaghetti- Very pleased with this one in the plots and also very good at Barry Franck's.

DET. TOMATO - Applause - Very pleased with this one in the plots, a high point of the season

DET. TOMATO - Better Bush - Very pleased with this one in the plots

DET. TOMATO - Bush Steak - Very pleased with this one in the plots

INDET. TOMATO - Black Krim - Got wrong seed from Burpee, will grow again with right seed

INDET. TOMATO - Rebekah Allen - Big plant, very small fruit, so-so production, will not grow again

INDET. TOMATO - Brandy Boy - Second year trialing, disappointing production, will not grow again

INDET. TOMATO - Bills Beefsteak - Large Plum size, good production, will grow again

INDET. TOMATO - Tomande - Big plants, great production, will grow again and more plants

ONION - Awful, soil too wet, will grow from sets at Barry Franck's next season

PEAS - Lousy production - move to a different bed

ZUCCHINI - Yellow and Green - both did great

SWISS CHARD - great

CUCUMBER - White Wonder - low production - do not like the fruit

CUCUMBER - Sugar Crunch - good production - like the fruit, very crisp

BEANS - Contender, Roc 'Dor (yellow), Roma - great production - best bean year ever, they like to grow beside each other, to compete! Who knew?

LETTUCE - good production on romaine. but why do I plant anything besides Iceberg?

BEETS - good production

CARROTS - good production on both Sweetness and Danver. Do the same Next Year

WATERMELON - grew Crimson Sweet at Barry Franck's. Good production. It will be better next year. But I will be trialing some seedless then. Proved that Barry's new ground will grow watermelon.

MUSK MELON - grew Tasty Sherbert at Barry Franck's and it is a terrific melon, wonderful!

MUSK MELON - grew Orange Sherbert at Barry Franck's and it is a good melon

Regular readers know that I keep a degree-day chart each year. I have chosen the base temperature of 50 degrees (F.) because I don't think plants do much growing below that temperature.

Degree days are the cumulative average temperatures above the set base (50 in this case). I always begin counting degree days on May 25, Casper's last average day of frost. If on May 25 the average temperature was 62 degrees, that would be 12 degrees above 50 and the cumulative total would be 12. If on May 26 the average temperature was 64 degrees, that is 14 degrees above 50 . I add that 14 to the 12 I already have, and the degree days for May 26 would be 26. Adding the degrees above the base together is what makes degree-days cumulative.

Here is the 2016 degree-day chart.

MAY 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 JUNE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
HIGH 60 56 63 81 64 53 63 69 69 73 80 83 71 78 86 86 72 84 89
LOW 37 37 36 40 45 41 39 40 39 35 40 43 51 41 43 56 52 50 49
AVER. 2017 48.5 46.5 49.5 60.5 54.5 47 51 54.5 54 54 60 63 61 59.5 64.5 66 62 67 69
DD (50) 4.5 1.5 2.5 7 11 15 25 38 49 58.5 73 89 101 118 137
JUNE 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25
HIGH 89 84 76 79 66 76 81 83 69 78 81 94 94 78 70 75 80
LOW 54 43 44 45 33 48 47 55 44 39 44 43 57 52 39 37 49
AVER. 2017 71.5 63.5 60 62 49.5 62 64 69 56.5 59 62.5 68.5 75.5 65 54.5 56 64.5
DD (50) 158.5 172 182 194 193.5 205.5 219.5 238.5 245 254 266.5 285 310.5 325.5 330 336 350.5
JUNE 26 27 28 29 30 JULY 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
HIGH 90 87 86 77 75 87 90 93 93 98 96 94 91 97 89 93
LOW 40 48 45 43 36 41 45 52 52 50 57 50 57 62 57 51
AVER. 2017 65 67.5 65.5 60 55.5 64 67.5 72.5 72.5 74 76.5 72 74 79.5 73 72
DD (50) 365.5 383 398.5 408.5 414 428 445.5 468 490.5 512.5 539 561 585 614.5 637.5 659.5
JULY 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27
HIGH 89 95 98 93 97 94 95 94 95 92 90 96 97 81 81 90
LOW 51 51 61 51 53 53 55 57 60 63 57 50 55 56 59 55
AVER. 2017 70 73 79.5 72 75 73.5 75 75.5 77.5 77.5 73.5 73 76 68.5 70 72.5
DD (50) 679.5 702.5 732 754 779 802.5 827.5 853 880.5 908 931.5 954.5 980.5 999 1019 1041.5
JULY 28 29 30 31 AUG 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
HIGH 90 85 89 92 91 82 74 93 80 71 78 77 82 74
LOW 53 57 53 52 50 56 50 44 53 53 44 50 53 52
AVER. 2017 71.5 71 71 72 70.5 69 62 68.5 66.5 62 61 63.5 67.5 63
DD (50) 1063 1084 1105 1127 1147.5 1166.5 1178.5 1197 1213.5 1225.5 1236.5 1250 1267.5 1280.5
AUGUST 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24
HIGH 83 82 86 90 73 80 87 87 90 91 82 87 90 90
LOW 47 51 47 56 48 46 51 46 49 46 47 44 46 64
AVER. 2017 65 66.5 73 60 63 69 66.5 69.5 69.5 68.5 64.5 65.5 68 77
DD (50) 1295.5 1312 1328.5 1351.5 1361.5 1374.5 1393.5 1410 1429.5 1448 1462.5 1478 1496 1523
AUGUST 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 SEP

1

2 3 4 5 6
HIGH 88 91 88 92 93 89 88 87 92 95 72 75 79
LOW 53 47 45 46 53 49 60 53 47 51 45 38 35
AVER. 2017 70.5 69 66.5 69 73 69 74 70 69.5 73 58.5 56.5 57
DD (50) 1543.5 1562.5 1579 1598 1621 1640 1664 1684 1703.5 1726.5 1735 1751.5 1758.5
SEPTEMBER 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19
HIGH 84 87 91 88 89 92 88 80 52 59 70 79 65
LOW 39 44 56 55 52 53 51 50 43 35 34 41 38
AVER. 2017 61.5 65.5 73.5 71.5 70.5 72.5 69.5 65 47.5 47 52 60 51.5
DD (50) 1770 1785.5 1809 1830.5 1851 1873.5 1893 1908 1905.5 1902.5 1904.5 1914.5 1916

- - This year's Degree Days compared to past years - -

Degree Days Through June 30
Through July 15
Through July 31
Through August 15
Through August 31
Through Sept. 19
This
Period
Running
Total
This
Period
Running
Total
This
Period
Running
Total
This
Period
Running
Total
This
Period
Running
Total
This
Period
Season
Total
2017
350.5
350.5
403.5
754
373
1127
234.5
1361.5
302.5
1664
252
1916
2016
523.5
523.5
272
795.5
387
1182.5
308
1490.5
209
1699.5
182.5
1882
2015
529
529
282.5
811.5
286
1097.5
311.5
1409
254.5
1663.5
279
1942.5
2014
390
390
299
689
380
1069
312.5
1381.5
243.5
1625
167
1792
2013
524.5
524.5
339
863.5
317
1180.5
426.5
1607
381.5
1988.5
315.5
2304
2012
558
558
362
920
416
1336
314.5
1650.5
317
1967.5
243
2210.5
2011
322.5
322.5
325.5
648
385.5
1033.5
305
1338.5
367
1705.5
195
1900.5
2010
364
364
228
592
264
856
394.5
1250.5
322
1572.5
175
1747.5
2009
327
327
258.5
585.5
256
841.5
267
1108.5
216
1324.5
254.5
1579
2008
292.5
292.5
281
573.5
387
960.5
289
1249.5
282.5
1532
96
1628
2007
431.5
431.5
348.5
780
400.5
1180.5
344.5
1525
278.5
1803.5
277.5
2081
2006
567.5
567.5
332.5
900
426.5
1326.5
308.5
1635
294.5
1929.5
131.5
2061
2005
333.5
333.5
297
630.5
360
990.5
256.5
1247
240
1487
242.5
1729.5
2004
314
314
270
584
269
853
275.5
1128.5
197.5
1326
246
1572
2003
401.5
401.5
307.5
709
399
1108
388
1496
317.5
1813.5
146.5
1960
2002
528
528
360
888
364
1252
278
1530
262
1792
248
2040

Between Seasons 2017-2018

November 5, 2017

Here is a new chart of melon varieties that I am considering growing and trialing out at Barry Franck's place this coming season.

Days to

Maturity

Name - Description Plant Height/Length Product
Recommend:
NESeed 68 Recommend
Tasty Sherbet
- Musk Melon Type, from NE Seed Catalog: " 6-7 lbs.) Tasty Sherbet F1 Hybrid Tuscan type melon is defined by its dark green sutures and medium net. With deep orange flesh and tight cavity, Tasty Sherbet F1 is an excellent melon. Tolerant to Alternaria, PM Race 1 and 2, FW Race 0, 1 and 2. Slips. 75-80 days." This melon is absolutely delicious, juicy, sweet, without ever being mealy. Best Melon I have ever grown. Medium Seed Potency
4 feet 8 inches
John 68 Recommend
Sun Jewel
- Crenshaw Type, Asian, 3 1/2 X 7 Heavy bearing, crisp and sweet flesh. Taste is similar to a honeydew. Turns yellow when ripe and slips easily off the vine. Has the look of a long, yellow, and very fat cucumber with white sutures, smooth skin. SSSPP, Grown in 2002, 2004-07. Will definitely grow again but maybe not in '09, so as to have room for watermelon experiments. Medium Seed Potency
4 feet 8 inches
Considering:
John 73, Halona - 4 to 5 pounds, From the Johnny catalog: "Fruits mature exta early. grow again. ? 4-5 pounds
Jung 68, Goddess Hybrid - 4 to 6 pounds, From the Jung catalog: "Harvest the first muskmelons of the season! Unlike many early melons where quality and flavor are sacrificed for earliness, Goddess is one of the best looking highest quality melons on the market, yielding 4 to 6 lb. eastern-type fruits that are oval-shaped with fine netting. The golden-orange flesh is thick, juicy and extra-sweet with wonderful flavor and aroma. It comes with a powerful disease resistance package, too, so yields are plentiful." ? 4-6 pounds
John 79, Jung 75, Athena - 5 to 7 pounds. Widely adapted. From the Johnny catalog: "Fruits mature exta early. grow again. ? 5-7 pounds
Bakr 85, Burp 80, NESeed 77, Hale's Best - 5 to 6 pounds. Widely adapted. From the NE Seed catalog: "(3 1/2 – 5 lbs.) Hale’s Best Jumbo features oval, ribbed and heavily netted fruits with salmon-orange flesh. Slips. 77 days." ? 4 pounds
Jung 76, Solstice Hybrid - From the Jung catalog: "Massive fruits with amazing sweet flavor. Weighing 6 to 9 pounds on average, these huge, deep sutured muskmelons have netted skin and thick, orange, richly flavored flesh rating 13% Brix on the sweetness scale. High yielding plants have a great disease package that includes resistance to powdery mildew and fusarium wilt." Grown in 2013. Great production. Fruits were small, 1 to 2.5 lbs. Will trial again. ? 6-9 pounds
John 75, NESeed 76, Lilly (F1) - Crenshaw Type - From the Johnny catalog: "Fruits average 6-8 lb. Skin is pale yellow, with juicy, light orange flesh with a distinctive sweet and spicy flavor. Lilly is much earlier than most Crenshaws and will perform much better than older varieties in regions with short seasons. Harvest at forced slip. Resistant to melon mosaic virus. Avg. 11,000 seeds/lb. Packet: 30 seeds." From NE Seed catalog: "(6-8 lbs.) Lilly PMT F1 Hybrid Crenshaw melon exhibits a pale yellow exterior with a light orange flesh. Features a high brix of 17%. Excellent taste. Tolerant to PM Race 1 and 2, WMV, PVY. Slips. 75-77 days." ? 6 to 8 pounds

2017 Moon Phases

Feb 26
Mar 5
Mar 12
Mar 20
Mar 27
Apr 3
Apr 11
Apr19
April 26
May 2
May 10
May 18
May 25
Jun 1
Jun 9
Jun 17
Jun 23
Jun 30
Jul 8
Jul 16
Jul 23
Jul 30
Aug 7
Aug 14
Aug 21
Aug 29
Sep 6
Sep 13
Sep 19
Sep 27
Oct 5
Oct 12

2017 Planting Guide

Click Here For 2009 Tomato Taste Test

= Rated for Taste
= Rated for Production

Plant Height New Variety Area
2016
Area
2017
Germination
Farenheit
Set out/Sow
72" to 96" Winter Squash/Pumpkin - Cinderella Area
17.66 sq ft
Area
9 sq ft
59 to 86 Sow May 25
72" to 96" Winter Squash - Red October Area
17.66 sq ft
Area
9 sq ft
59 to 86 Sow May 25
72" to 96" Winter Squash - Spaghetti Squash Area
17.66 sq ft
Area
9 sq ft
59 to 86 Sow May 25
72" to 96" Winter Squash - Heart of Gold Area
10.33 sq ft
Area
9 sq ft
59 to 86 Sow May 25
72" to 96" Total Counts for Winter Squash Area
85 sq ft
Area
18 sq ft
59 to 86 Sow May 25
60" Ind. Tomato - Black Krim Area
8 plants
Area
2 plants
59 to 86 Set out May 25
60" Ind. Tomato - Tomande Area
6 plants
Area
2 plants
59 to 86 Set out May 25
60" Ind. Tomato - Brandy Boy Area
2 plants
Area
2 plants
59 to 86 Set out May 25
60" NEW! Ind. Tomato - Rebekah Allen Area
0 plants
Area
2 plants
59 to 86 Set out May 25
60" NEW! Ind. Tomato - Ball's Beefsteak Area
0 plants
Area
2 plants
59 to 86 Set out May 25
60" Total Counts for Ind. Tomato Area
14 plants
Area
10 plants
59 to 86 Sow May 25
28" Peas - Sugar Snap Area
32 sq ft
Area
10.5 sq ft
39 to 62 Sow May 1
28" Peas - Sugar Pod Area
32 sq ft
Area
10.5 sq ft
39 to 62 Sow May 1
28" Total Counts for Peas Area
64 sq ft
Area
21 sq ft
39 to 62 Sow May 1
28" Zucchini - Yellow Area
9.26 sq ft
Area
6 sq ft
39 to 62 Sow May 25
28" Zucchini - Green Area
9.26 sq ft
Area
3 sq ft
39 to 62 Sow May 25
28" Total Counts for Zucchini Area
18.52 sq ft
Area
6 sq ft
39 to 62 Sow May 25
26" NEW! White Wonder Cucumber Area
? sq ft
Area
6 sq ft
63 to 86 Sow May 25
26" NEW! Sugar Crunch Cucumber Area
? sq ft
Area
6 sq ft
63 to 86 Sow May 25
26" Total Counts for Cucumber Area
36 sq ft
Area
12 sq ft
63 to 86 Sow May 25
24" Herbs Area
18 sq ft
Area
9 sq ft
???? May 25
24" Sweet Pepper - Sweet Area
18 sq ft
Area
6 sq ft
68 to 86 Set out May 25
24" Sweet Pepper - Hot Area
24 sq ft
Area
0 sq ft
68 to 86 Set out May 25
24" Total Counts for Peppers Area
42 sq ft
Area
6 sq ft
68 to 86 Set out May 25
24" Chard Area
8 sq ft
Area
3 sq ft
68 to 86 Sow May 18
24" Carrot - Danver Area
9 sq ft
Area
4.5 sq ft
68 to 86 Sow May 18
24" Carrot - Sweetness Area
9 sq ft
Area
4.5 sq ft
68 to 86 Sow May 18
24" Total Counts for Carrots Area
18 sq ft
Area
9 sq ft
68 to 86 Sow May 18
24" Det. Tomato - Applause Area
10 Plants
Area
6 Plants
59 to 86 Set out May 25
18" NEW! Det. Tomato - Better Bush Hyb. Area
0 plants
Area
2 plants
59 to 86 Set out May 25
18" NEW! Det. Tomato - Bush Steak Hyb. Area
0 plants
Area
2 plants
59 to 86 Set out May 25
18" Total Counts for Det. Tomatoes Area
34 plants
Area
10 plants
59 to 86 Set out May 25
18" Total Counts for ALL TOMATOES Area
48 plants
Area
20 plants
59 to 86 Set out May 25
18" Broccoli Area
12 plants
Area
4 plants
48 to 77 Set out May 18
17" Beets Area
12 sq ft
Area
4 sq ft
41 to 86 Sow May 18
12" Onion Area
26 sq ft
Area
9 sq ft
46 to 77 Sets on May 1
Plants on May11
9" Cabbage Area
18 sq ft
Area
6 sq ft
57 to 89 Set out May 18
9" Radish Area
6 sq ft
Area
2 sq ft
51 to 84 Sow May 11
6" to 12" Lettuce Area
18 sq ft
Area
6 sq ft
42 to 68 Sow May 1
6" to 12" Bush Bean - Contender Area
24 sq ft
Area
8 sq ft
50 to 77 Sow May 18 or 25
6" to 12" Bush Bean - Roma II Area
12 sq ft
Area
4 sq ft
50 to 77 Sow May 18 or 25
6" to 12" Totals for Bush Beans Area
36 sq ft
Area
12 sq ft
50 to 77 Sow May 18 or 25
26" NEW! Melon - Solstice To be grown at Barry Frank's 68 to 90 May 25
26" NEW! Melon - Aphrodite To be grown at Barry Frank's 68 to 90 May 25
26" NEW! Watermelon - Shiny Boy To be grown at Barry Frank's 68 to 90 May 25
26" NEW! Watermelon - Crimson Sweet To be grown at Barry Frank's 68 to 90 May 25

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